Free Tune-Up Tips for a Chevy 350
***DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE STARTING THIS PROJECT****#tuneup #suv #gmtuneup How to tune up your car changing the spark plugs. I did not change the boots. Aug 24, · Regular tune-ups can extend the life of a vehicle and help ensure it is operating at its full performance potential. Typically, when to do a tune-up is included in the regular maintenance section of owner’s manuals. Tuning-up your car today can mean a lot of things. It’s a good idea to check the car’s filters, belts, hoses, and fluids.
J-Ball Electronics has been supporting the trucking yruck for 15 years, helping truckers get the truck they deserve and not the one the manufacturer thinks you deserve. Tuning your ECM safely increases horsepower and torque which means you accelerate faster, spend less time grabbing gears and can hold higher gears and lower RPMs up hills. Upgrading your ECM is the only trck you need to see big savings, no need for turbo, injector, manifold ohw cam modifications. ECM tuning will reduce your downtime and derates.
If you drive in a professional manner watch your pyrometer and fune regular maintenance you will see the best gains and experience no problems whatsoever. The largest gains will be achieved with a custom ECM designed to suit your driving style and loads, or select how to tune up a chevy truck plug-in module for instant efficiency gains tuen the ability to switch between a number of engine maps. Call for more information on ECM fuel efficiency tuning for your truck.
Equip your shop with a laptop with diagnostic software to read ECM programming, adjust parameters, reset ip codes and load custom tunes from J-Ball Electronics. Fleet owners receive volume discounts when tuning multiple ECMs, contact J-Ball Chhevy to find out how you can start saving today. You already provide mechanical services to your customers, expand your services by providing ECM tuning, fuel mileage upgrades, power upgrades, read engine fault codes, do engine tests and change regular parameter settings such as max speed limit, tire chevh and custom tuning for emission systems.
If it has a diesel engine we can help you diagnose problems and reduce fuel consumption, call to start saving today. Toll-Free: Email: info jballelectronics. Your satisfaction is guaranteed and backed by warranty and our dedicated staff of engineers and technicians. Find out more about J-Ball Supreme Service. Fill in the form below to find out how J-Ball Electronics ECM tuning can help your trucking and transportation business cut your fuel bills and make trucking great again.
Complete the form below and one of our helpful staff will contact you with more information. We are an aftermarket custom ECM tuner and rebuilder, all aforementioned names, logos and trademarks shown on our website are owned by the respective companies. TeamViewer Remote Desktop Download. Fleet Owners Equip your shop with a laptop with diagnostic software to read ECM programming, adjust parameters, reset fault codes and load custom tunes from J-Ball Electronics.
Repair Shops You already provide mechanical services to your customers, expand your services by providing ECM tuning, fuel mileage upgrades, power upgrades, read engine fault codes, do engine tests and change regular parameter settings such as max speed limit, tire sizes and custom tuning for emission systems.
Most ECMs tyne be tuned online remotely, find out how ECM tuning is done or call for more information and pricing. Store up to hp, vehicle programs in the TuneTap so book how to love your wife can service multiple pieces of equipment in the field without the need for a laptop.
Up to 10 different tunes can be loaded and selected using the handheld programming console, allowing you to switch between tunes for different applications.
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Increase Horsepower and Torque and Save up to 3 MPG!
Apr 09, · Before we laid a wrench on the truck we wanted to see just how much power the stock produced. So we headed out to our friend Mark D'Anna's SuperFlow chassis . Setting the timing requires a timing tight. Connect the timing light to the engine following the manufacturer's instructions, then mark the number "4" which appears on the lip of the harmonic balancer with chalk. Also note the metal timing tab just above the .
GM's Word Nate's Word ». So happens that while Nate was writing this procedure, I had the need to use it on my newly rebuilt As an amateur restorer, I first set out to create the engine stand front end of a badly burned out and a portable starting caddy I call The Start Kart.
The cart has two battery bays, storage for the compression tester, timing light, misc fittings, etc. Most people put all that on the engine stand, but I wanted it portable so I could roll it up to anything to diagnose problems. It was the perfect thing for this project. The engine stand has its own radiator and exhaust system complete with the hoses to run the exhaust outside.
Now on to the important stuff If you are rebuilding your engine and haven't started it yet, Static Timing is a very valuable tool for getting your engine in the ballpark. Get a 12 volt dash light bulb and solder a red wire to the pointed tip and a black wire to the side of the bulb. Put Alligator Clips on the ends. A must-have for static timing your Vintage Rig! A Multimeter set to DC Volts will also do.
The Counterman should show you how to use it on a new spark plug. They are never EVER pre-gapped like they tell you. These are available at Thrift Stores or Pawn Shops very affordably. To begin, the cylinders are numbered from 1 to 6 from the front of the engine to the back. GM L6 engines have the firing order the way the wires connect: 1, 5, 3, 6, 2, 4.
Nate-- my wife begs to differ. Remove the spark plugs and line them up in a row the same order you removed them. Hold one spark plug up so you can look across the working part. If the shoulders edges of the center electrode are rounded at all, the engine will not run well. Spark plugs are cheap. Just buy the standard copper cored ones, never platinum or multi-electrode ones.
Holding the plug inverted, slide the. Using the wire type gauge is best here. You want it as close to. To change the gap just tap the plug on a hard surface, the cement driveway, etc. All clean and gapped adjusted now?
Good, set them aside and remove the distributor cap. Most have metal spring clips on each side. Use a short flat-bladed screwdriver up near the top of each spring to pop them loose. Make a note of the empty 1 wire location relative to the clips in the distributor so you can put it back in the same place later. Looking in, you should see the plastic rotor piece.
It may have some burn marks on the outer metal tip but this is ok. Depending on the year, either it will have a bent up metal blade in the center or it will be flat in the center of the rotor and the distributor cap will have a spring loaded carbon brush, never both. Grab the fan pulley and rotate the engine. The shaft has high points called 'lobes' and what you want is to stop turning the engine as the rubbing block is on the highest point of any lobe.
This holds the points wide open for adjusting. Find the. Take a moment to find this and gently twist the screwdriver to open or close up the points until the. All set? Take the distributor cap in your hand and just turn it over with the remaining wires attached so you can find the Number One wire again.
Place it back on the distributor, twist it until the clips line up and you feel the cap click into place on the distributor. Make note of where the empty 1 plug wire connection is in the cap and rotate the engine until the rotor is pointing at that position, then place the cap and snap the clips back into place.
There is also a sharp pointer in the upper edge of the hole pointing down. I like to make a circle around the ball bearing pressed into the flywheel with chalk or a white crayon. Turn the ignition key to the on position. Now connect your static timing light to the wire leading between the distributor and the ignition coil, then connect the other end to the engine somewhere where it will get a good ground. With the key in the on position, see if the light lights up.
If it never lights up you have an electrical problem somewhere. It could be the light, the way it is connected, the coil, the condenser, the points, the cap, the coil or wire or several other things a mouse has eaten through while the car sat idle in the barn.
What you want to do is this turn the engine backwards counterclockwise until the BB disappears then very slowly rotate it clockwise, watching both the test light and the pointer in the hole. You want the light to come on just as the BB lines up on the pointer, but it rarely does so if they line up but no light, stop it there and loosen the pinch clamp at the base of the distributor where it connects to the engine.
Note this is using a static timing light for this. Go try to start it. It should roar to life and idle well. If nothing else, at least remove and re-gap the old spark plugs to. Safety Note: I have a friend who nearly had his face blown off because he had a spark plug too close to the hole it came from when he tried to crank the engine. Make sure the ignition is off or the distributor cap is removed before attempting anything that requires removal of a spark plug! Safety always first!!
If you have the desire to know the overall health of your engine, a good place to start is with checking the compression. A few things contribute to low compression such as piston ring wear and valve adjustment.
There is another How-To on the website by our very own Nate on how to adjust your valves. Do that first! It will make a huge difference in the way your engine runs. Purchase a compression gauge kit, I got mine from Harbor Freight and it is one of the better tools you can get from there. I am very pleased. It comes with all of the connectors, fittings, and then some that you need. With the ignition switch off make sure its off , remove all the spark plugs and the distributor cap.
Prop the throttle wide open to get the most accurate reading. Screw the fitting into the 1 spark plug hole until the rubber o-ring squashes just a bit. Turn the engine over with the starter long enough for the compression gauge to register the compression number of the cylinder. Keep cranking until the gauge needle stops rising - This is important.
Record the number, release the gauges pressure small push button on the gauge and do it again to make sure it's reading very close. Do this on every cylinder one at a time. Any numbers above 95 psi means the engine is ok and will run well. Compression as low as 65 psi should be okay, but may smoke and idle poorly. As you can see with a new engine, they are in the range.
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